Bite-size guide to the island in winter

Why should I visit Capri in the winter?

Want to come to Capri in the winter, but worried you’ll find everything closed? Here are a few insider tips for those keen to discover a different kind of Capri: wild, romantic, and almost completely tourist-free!


If you’ve decided to come to Capri in the winter, the best way to get here is by ferry or fast ferry (operated by Caremar). The boats may be a little slower than hydrofoils, but they are cheaper and, more importantly, whilst hydrofoil services are almost always cancelled when the sea is rough, ferries invariably continue to sail. Bear in mind that from January to March Capri’s funicular railway is closed and the service replaced by a bus.
Ferry times to and from Capri

Where can I get a good coffee?

The only bar in the Piazzetta to stay open throughout the winter is the Piccolo Bar. A great choice for a shot of hot coffee or warming aperitif, both in and outside (the bar has recently purchased some incredibly effective patio heaters!).

Won’t they rip me off?
Don’t worry, contrary to popular belief, a coffee in Capri’s Piazzetta costs as much as anywhere else in Italy: 1.10 € if you drink it standing at the bar,  4€ if you drink it, at leisure, sat at one of the little tables outside.

What can I do?

Walk of course! One of the best walks (made all the more pleasant by the lack of crowds) begins at the Gardens of Augustus and continues down the spectacular Via Krupp all the way to Marina Piccola. Less energetic visitors can take the stroll along Via Tragara instead, knowing they’ll be rewarded by a fabulous view of the Faraglioni at the end. If the weather is fine and the sea is calm, you can visit the Grotta Azzurra. Don’t give up just because the ticket office is closed: ask one of the local fishermen in Marina Grande and, miraculously, a boat will appear!

Another all-year-round attraction is the chairlift to Monte Solaro. In the winter, the chairlift is open until 16.00hrs. On a clear winter’s day (without the risk of summer haze!) the view from the summit is particularly spectacular. Don’t be lazy: by all means, take the chairlift up to the top of the mountain, but make the descent in foot, via the pretty cliff edge church of Cetrella.

Where should I go to eat?

One advantage of coming to Capri in the winter is that the usual tourist traps are all closed and your chances of living and eating like a local are blissfully high! Here’s our list of tried and trusted winter watering holes:

  • E’ Di Vino: a restaurant-wine bar hidden away in a little lane off Via Le Botteghe. Once a private home, the beds, sofas and traditional kitchen table of which are still on show, the restaurant has a distinctly vintage feel – as does the menu, comprised of old fashioned vegetable soups, stockfish, and semolina puddings….?Vico Sella Orta, 10/a Tel: +39 0818378364?Closed Tuesday
  • Verginello: a simple restaurant famous for its good honest food and a view of the Bay of Naples guaranteed to take your breath away. Needless to say, the locals love it. Verginello does a great pizza too, available at both lunch and dinner.?Via Lo Palazzo, 25/A (at the bottom of the steps next to the post office on via Roma) – Tel: +39 081 8370944
  • La Piazzetta: don’t be fooled by the name, you won’t find this restaurant in Capri’s famous square but rather in Marina Piccola. Whilst in the summer months, meals are served in the terrace facing the Faraglioni, in the winter customers eat inside in the sea-view dining room. On warm winter days, you can ask to eat on one of the few tables outside. The fish dishes are fabulous. Don’t dare leave without having tried the souffle: served warm with two little dishes of dark and white chocolate. Want to ease your calorie-induced sense of guilt? Walk back to the center of Capri up the tortuous Via Krupp ?Via Marina Piccola 126 –  Tel:    +39  081 8370944      ?Open for lunch only

If you decide to stay the night on the island, we suggest you have dinner in Anacapri, home to two of the island’s best eateries:

  • Aumm Aumm: if you’re a pizza perfectionist, you’ve come to the right place! Aumm Aumm, serves a huge variety of pizzas (cooked in a traditional wood-burning oven), as well as panini and pasta dishes. This is where the islanders come to watch the soccer on the mega screen, so if there’s a big match (and especially if Napoli is playing) you’ll need to book in advance! ?Via Caprile 18 , Anacapri –  Tel. +39 081 8373000      ?Open evenings only, closed Monday
  • Il Buco: good pizza and a good selection of typical island dishes too. Intimate with just a few tables. The spaghetti with clams is simply divine!? Via Tommaso De Tommaso 24, Anacapri – Tel +39 0818371970

And if I decide to stay for the night?
The majority of Capri’s hotels are closed from early November until Easter. This said, there is an ever growing number of B&Bs on the island – nearly all of which stay open all-year-round.
To find out who’s open and who’s not, check out our online booking site:
Find a hotel on the island of Capri



I like your blog! do you know any nice place open in January. we want to come from Naples for one night.
or we might just come for the day, is this silly to do?

posted by Katherine Burke on 01.12.14 at 11:20 pm

Hello Katherine,
if the weather is sunny, it will be not silly come to Capri just for one day. But, if you want to explore Capri without rush, could be a good idea spending a night here. You could find some gracious b&b. Check on oure booking online:

posted by alessandro on 01.13.14 at 10:50 am

Hi, Camilla.
Enjoy reading your posts. As a frequent visitor to Capri myself, I have often pondered doing what you did…stay over the winter. You are very fortunate. I would like to know how you found a place to live for the long-term?
If you get a chance, say “hello” to my friend Luciana who runs the B&B Il Tramanto up in Anacapri.

Professor Jim

posted by Jim on 11.19.14 at 8:57 pm

Hi Jim,
I used to check on or other vacation rental web-site and ask to the owner about a long-term rental from october to april. In winter time you easily find a good deal! I’m going to say hello to Luciana when I see her!

posted by camilla on 11.20.14 at 8:26 am
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